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Minglei: Hins Cheung’s Favorite Guangzhou Breakfast Diner

Posted: 04/11/2014 12:52 pm
minglei restaurant guangzhou review rice noodle congee breakfast cantonese Hins cheung joey yung Hong Kong pop star

Hong Kong pop singers Hins Cheung (left) and Joey Yung (middle) have breakfast at Minglei restaurant in Guangzhou. (photo: Hins’ weibo)

Rice noodle roll and congee are the classic symbols of a good, hearty Cantonese breakfast. Thousands of restaurants sell them across Guangzhou as part of their menu, but it’s the 20 year-old Minglei Restaurant that stands apart by bringing you back to 1990s with its “retro” feeling.

Minglei restaurant caught the public’s attention when it was promoted by its big fan, Hong Kong pop singer Hins Cheung. The word is that Hins will go to Minglei and order four beef dishes of rice noodle roll every time he comes to Guangzhou.

Taste
Called “coeng fan” (腸粉) in Cantonese, rice noodle roll is made with steamed rice milk and can be filled with such varied ingredients like beef, barbeque pork (“caa siu”, or叉燒) and shrimp. Sweet soy sauce is poured over the dish before serving.

The key to make a successful coeng fan is to make them “thin, smooth and light”. Compared with other restaurants in Guangzhou, Minglei definitely scores well in this department. As well, many restaurants make their soy sauce very salty and greasy, but Minglei clearly has the experience to provide theirs with a light, sweet touch.

However, the most amazing part of Minglei’s take on the classic Cantonese dish is that it contains a mysterious flavor usually found only in 90’s-era dishes. The taste is a little bit like the Chinese “Wok Hei flavor,” but not that strong. Whether the taste comes from the steaming machine or the source of cooking fuel, it was a nostalgic return to my Cantonese childhood.

Moving on to the other important part of a balanced Cantonese breakfast, congee is a type of rice porridge popular in Guangzhou. Called “zuk” (粥) in Cantonese, it is a good side dish to be served alongside rice noodle roll. Just the same as with coeng fan, various added ingredients will complement the body of the dish such as meat, fish or liver.

Minglei’s congee tastes very rich because the chef cooks it in a small pot that brings ample heat to the rice and the meat. I would personally recommend the rice porridge called “soeng zaap zuk”, a classic congee in Guangzhou that contains innards.

Surrounding & Price
Minglei is located in historic Fangcun, the old city of Guangzhou. It is small, simple and crude, and the restaurant does not have enough waitresses; however, the staff in there are all friendly. It doesn’t have an English menu and most of the customers of Minglei are locals, meaning Putonghua is not as popular as Cantonese. All in all, if you want to enjoy the local lifestyle, Minglei is a good place to try.

The prices are very cheap; dishes sell for only five or six RMB each. Four beef coeng fan and one congee only cost 22 yuan, so it doesn’t actually cost that much to eat like a Hong Kong pop singer after all.

Address
广州市荔湾区芳村大道中山村路F14
F14 Shancun Lu, Fangcun Da Dao Zhong, Liwan district, Guangzhou

Photos: Charles Tian, Hins Cheung’s Weibo

Haohao

Fantastic bang for your lunch buck at 37 Degrees 2

Posted: 11/28/2013 3:00 pm

Located down the alley just off of bustling Huanshi Dong Lu, you’ll find 37 Degrees 2, a quaint European styled restaurant specializing in French-Vietnamese cuisine. The restaurant has a large, wraparound outdoor terrace with plenty of seating and an impressive tree canopy to dampen the noisy street below.

Serving weekend brunch, lunch, afternoon tea sets, and dinner, 37 Degrees 2′s menu is extensive: soups, salads, pastas, steaks, fish, seafood and pastries. But when it comes to their set lunch menu, they wisely keep it simple: three courses from a choice of two soups, four salads, and nine main courses for the bargain basement price of RMB33-46. Add a coffee, milk tea or lemon tea for an extra RMB5.

For my soup I chose the sour and spicy fish bisque. Advertised as French, the soup tasted remarkably like a Thai tom yum. The broth was just the right amount of hot, cut with just the right amount of coconut milk. My guest chose the grilled mushroom soup with bacon, which while not as impressive as the bisque, was a respectable take on the classic cream of mushroom soup.

For the salad course I had the smoked duck breast salad with sesame dressing. Served thinly sliced, the duck was lean, and tender. Unfortunately the salad component was little more than iceberg lettuce, and half a cherry tomato drowned in a creamy dressing. My guest had the Vietnamese water chestnut and shrimp spring roll. Accompanied by a similar salad, albeit with romaine lettuce, the crispy spring roll was served with a sweet chilli dipping sauce. As for the contents, the shrimp was a pureed cake as opposed to whole shrimp, which depending on your tastes is either a good or bad thing.

For our mains, my guest chose the sautéed sole fillet with fruit sauce and mashed potatoes. The sole was tender, lightly breaded, and peppery to the taste; not too heavy, and not too light. However it could have done with a bit less of the mystery “fruit sauce”, which quickly congealed and had an odd consistency. I went with the lemongrass pork chop with rice. The boneless pork was lean, and well cooked. It was served with Nuoc Cham, a traditional Vietnamese dipping sauce.

Although neither of us partook in dessert, there was no shortage of stellar looking pastries, available for take-away from the adjoined bakery. The popular choice appearing on several tables was a stacked mille-feuille, or vanilla slice. The generous portion looked large enough to share between two or three people.

Despite a few small grievances, 37 Degrees 2 is a solid lunch option. The setting and service is better than comparable restaurants, and considering the price, is serious bang for your buck. Service is fast if you need to be in an out on a strict lunch break, while the pretty outdoor setting may leave you wanting to linger.

Set lunch served daily from 11:00-14:30 for RMB 33-46, afternoon tea set from 14:30-17:00 for RMB 88 for two.

View the restaurant’s address and contact info here.

Haohao

Dumpling fans rejoice at Guangzhou’s famous Jurong

Posted: 11/5/2013 11:19 am

Dumplings, or jiaozi, are most popular in northern China.  For this reason, the best dumpling houses are usually founded by people from the Manchurian region. However, when people use online search engines to find the best jiaozi in Guangzhou, they almost always end up at a Cantonese-run-restaurant called Jurong Dumpling Restaurant.

Food

The restaurant offers many kinds of dumplings with different fillings. Dumplings with corn and pork inside are the most welcomed, but I strongly advise you to try the one containing shitake mushrooms, water chestnuts and pork. Water chestnuts usually grow in southern China and is a popular ingredient in Chinese dishes. After boiling, it has slightly crunchy texture with a wee bit of sweetness that gives the dumplings a great flavour.

Chinese chives and beef dumplings are the most expensive in Jurong. Chives are believed to help build up a man’s sexual stamina, which may explain their higher cost.

Mmmmm….

While it’s common to dip dumplings in some kind of sauce, the best can be eaten without. Northern Chinese people usually dip dumplings into raw mashed garlic, while Cantonese like vinegar and soy sauce. Except for those two traditional sauces, Jurong also offers Shacha which is a popular sauce from Shantou.

Atmosphere & Price

Jurong is not a fancy restaurant. People don’t come here for the service, but that doesn’t mean the service is bad. It’s best described as acceptable.

The surroundings are simple, and like many other local restaurants, it is not 100% clean. But it’s great for a quick lunch and based on the great reputation the restaurant has, the food is safe. Although the restaurant offers air conditioning, it’s still pretty warm inside. Wait staff are mostly from Guangdong, so you can order in your best Cantonese if you like!

Jurong offer three different sizes of orders. The small includes eight dumplings, with the medium and large portions comparably larger.

Conclusion

Again, this is not a high-end restaurant; the atmosphere and decorations are simple but the food is delicious and full of local Chinese elements. Dumpling fans should not skip Jurong.

You can find Jurong’s address and information here.

Haohao

Hidden Kyodaifune & Marutan authentically Japanese

Posted: 10/15/2013 2:00 pm

Fresh ingredients and delicate presentations are the most charming aspects of Japanese cuisine, and both are put on fully display at a little hidden place in Guangzhou.

A rumour has been circulating of late on Sina Weibo that Guangzhou’s best Japanese restaurant is hiding along Tiyu Dong Lu.  It’s an enticing rumour, considering how many Japanese restaurants have opened in the city.

The mysterious restaurant consists of two main parts: Izakaya Marutan on the ground floor and Kyodaifune, the restaurant, on the first floor. Kyodaifune and Marutan is hard to find because it has no sign and no logo. All that distinguishes the place as a restaurant is a small stand outside telling people they offer alcohol and Japanese dishes.

The Food

The best way to test the food quality of a Japanese restaurant is by ordering the ramen. Many people will ask, “But why not sushi?” Remember, you are going to a comprehensive restaurant, not just a sushi bar. Sometimes the texture in Japanese cooking comes out in dishes other than sushi.

Soup is the key element to a successful ramen; some Japanese describe it as “the soul of the chef.” Most of the Japanese food providers in Guangzhou serve Tonkotsu Ramen, which contains pork-bone soup. But the chefs in Kyodaifune use seafood in the recipe.

I ordered the salted version, but an unsalted option was also available. Different from Tonkotsu, which sometimes tastes very strong, the seafood soup was more simple, clean and fresh. It is probably not a very local Japanese flavour but it works for me, as a Cantonese. Going with the chewy noodle, tasty char siu, boiled egg, spring onion and nori, it was delicious.

Apart from ramen, the most popular (and delicious) dish is “fried milk with shrimp”. The deep fried technique, called karaage in Japan, is usually used on fish and meat. It is nearly impossible to deep fry milk, but chefs in Kyodaifune have found a way.

The pieces melt in your mouth along with a few pieces shrimp and an unknown dark sauce. The richness is really hard to describe: it tasted like milk, cheese and an overall mixture of tasty. I can’t recommend this dish highly enough.

Now it was time to try the sushi. The waitress suggested the conger sushi, which is popular in Kyoto cuisine. It was the first time in my life I had ever eaten conger. The presentation was very professional, and good quality ginger was provided (which is hard to find at some Japanese restaurants). However, the fish contained small bones, which shouldn’t happen in sushi.

After dinner in Kyodaifune, it was time to the ground floor to take a drink at Izakaya Marutan.  An Izakaya is a Japanese drinking establishment which also serve snacks and delicate food. They are sometimes rowdy after-work drinking holes in Japan, primarily serving salarymen.

Marutan serves high-end alcohol, most of which is imported from Japan. On offer is sake, shochu, and more with prices ranging from RMB360 to RMB1200 per bottle.  Marutan also has expensive snacks made from wagyu beef, which sell for RMB100 per 100 grams. Other food like Canadian horsemeat sashimi is occasionally available.  Despite the luxuries on offer, I opted for a simple Kirin beer.

Atmosphere

I would say the feeling inside Kyodaifune & Marutan is that of a small version of Japan in Guangzhou. The restaurant is usually full of Japanese people. Most of the employees also come from Japan. If you like the culture and can speak some Japanese, this is a great place to practice your language skills.

By the way, you will need to sit on tatami mats for dinner, so be aware in case that makes you uncomfortable. Marutan is a bit small with only one bar counter and a tiny table, but the atmosphere is authentically Japanese.

Service

To be honest, it is hard to find a Japanese restaurant with poor service. The nature of Japanese servers is generally polite, and this was no exception. Sometimes, they will even kneel down to serve you food. Nevertheless, the good service can really only enjoyed by Chinese and Japanese, because there is no English menu.

Conclusion

Kyodaifune & Marutan is a high-quality Japanese restaurant with probably the best ramen in Guangzhou. The food is great and there is a wide selection of alcohol.  Service is good but it could be better if they had an English menu.

Price

Dinner for one person: RMB200

Address can be found here.

Haohao
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